IS PIZZA MORE ITALIAN OR AMERICAN?-part 1
A surprising 65% of Americans believe pizza is an American invention, a notion that outrages Italians, particularly Neapolitans. Yet, this widespread belief among Americans isn't entirely unfounded. Let's delve into the issue.
What is the "Pizza Effect"?
In 1970, anthropologist Leopold Fischer, known monastically as Agehananda Bharati, introduced the "pizza effect" concept, a foundation for many sociological studies. This theory describes how a cultural element is transported to another culture where it undergoes a radical transformation, then returns to its original context in a new form, replacing the initial element. To illustrate this phenomenon, Professor Bharati used pizza, specifically Neapolitan pizza.
Bharati explained that while pizza originated in Southern Italy, it was a humble food that transformed into the rich, topping-filled dish we know today in New York. This transformation is linked to the great migration of Italians to America, which played a crucial role in shaping Italian culinary tastes. Italian immigrants who returned home brought back the Americanized version of pizza, making it a symbol of Italian cuisine.
Fifty Years Ago, No One Was Outraged
When Bharati demystified the history of a symbol of Italian cuisine over fifty years ago, the Italian media, politics, and public paid little attention. Today, however, if a professor from a prestigious American university questioned the origins of typical Italian dishes, it would likely cause significant controversy. In 1970, the origins of traditional Italian dishes were of little interest to Italians, and the history of cuisine as a discipline was just emerging. Among all dishes, Neapolitan pizza was perhaps the least interesting historically, viewed by many Italians as a poor and negatively representative dish, symbolizing a backward city.
Naples in the Early 1970s
In July 1973, Italy witnessed bread riots in Naples, followed by a cholera epidemic a month later, highlighting the city's dire social conditions. At the time, tourism was not a significant part of Naples' economy, and gastronomic tourism was not considered. Consequently, the potential appeal of Neapolitan specialties for tourism was overlooked. Thus, if Americans wanted to claim the invention of Neapolitan pizza, there was little indignation from Italians in the 1970s.
Pizza as a Symbol of Poverty and Filth in the 19th Century
Pizza, the quintessential food of the poor, was long associated with Naples' socio-economic conditions. Throughout the 19th century, it was described as a symbol of the poverty and filth characterizing Naples' working-class neighborhoods. Writers like Carlo Collodi and Matilde Serao depicted pizza in unflattering terms, emphasizing its poor quality and association with unsanitary conditions. For instance, Serao's 1884 novel "The Belly of Naples" portrayed pizza as a symbol of the city's degradation, reinforcing its negative image.